Amazonas is one of those places that still has the allure of new discoveries lurking in the Earth. Something I cherish about the cloud forests of Amazonas is the seclusion that shrouds this land in mystery, legends, and wonders. Cave Atumpampa, is one such mystery. This cave found in a deep valley is approximately 1km deep and harbors bones, skulls, and ancient cloths from mummified remains. Walking in our bubble of light, hedging the surrounding weight of darkness, one can feel the eyes of this land’s ancestors as they follow you in contemplation of the living. Make no mistake, here you are a guest in another dimension where the ancient local spirits have resided for over a thousand years (AD 300 – 1452). Although ransacked by both locals and non-locals, there are many human remains that still cover the cave floors. 

The name Atumpampa is Quechua for “Big Meadow”. This cave was used as a Chachapoyas burial site for men, woman, children, and animals. They placed their mummified and non-mummified dead in several caverns with reverence that showed a faith in the afterlife. This display of connection they held between the living and the dead was practiced by protecting the remains of their ancestors. 

The Chachapoyas had sophisticated techniques for mummification, leaving the skin leathered and intact, then burying the mummified remains into a rock sarcophagus. Those that were mummified were used to maintain an established connection to their dead ancestors allowing communication with the deceased. These caves were viewed as tunnels for those transitioning between the living and the dead. “In Andean and Amerindian belief, caves were often places of origin, providers of life, and sometimes considered places of emergence, or a connection to supernatural realms or underworlds”. (Duviols, 1986) 

Among the multitude of bones found were clues that revealed the level of sophistication attained by the Chachapoyas. For instance, bones could be found with fractures or injuries that were healed with medical attention and treatment. Trepanation (drilling of a hole into the skull) was a common practice in the indigenous tribes of the Eastern forested Andes mountains, but it seems like the Chachapoyas were masters of how to do this, even crafting special tools for better surgical procedures. Trepanation was used for the relief of intracranial pressure, treatment of headaches, and spiritual rituals such as the release of evil spirits. 

As we trekked further from the light we found ourselves in a darkness where there was no difference between having your eyes opened or closed. The sound of running water coming from both above and below ground could be heard. In its high-pitched drumming, like a metronome from drop to drip to ripple, you can hear the path forward past segmented pools of calcium deposits.

As we carefully traversed the ups and downs of the trodden paths along the edges of this wide cavern it dawned on me… these pathways along much of the highground were created by the very Chachapoyan natives that laid out their dead here. No wonder the eyes of these ancient spirits followed us so intently, pondering the reason for our presence.

Coming back out of the cave and into daylight was like coming out of a gateway where time did not exist. I felt honored to be in the presence of something so ancient, and humbled by the discoveries we made this day. This was just one of many caves in this area that I hope to continue exploring and bring more tales of new discoveries. 

Knutson S. (2009). Cave archeology in Peru. California Caver, 242: 2-12.

Pursley R., Hooven L. (2011). An archeological expedition to Atumpampa cave in Northern Peru. NSS News, 69(10): 18-21.

Ruiz Estrada A. (2008). Las cavernas y el poblamiento prehispánico de la provincia de Chachapoyas. Investigaciones Sociales – UNMSM, 20 : 35-62